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Ultimaker 3 feeder grinding free

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The direct cause of filament grinding comes from the extruder attempting to push the filament. Failing to do so, the extruder leaves a divet in. Are you having trouble setting or adjusting the tension of the feeder on your Ultimaker S5 or Ultimaker 3 3D printer? Then this tutorial is for you. The direct cause of filament grinding comes from the extruder attempting to push the filament. Failing to do so, the extruder leaves a divet in.

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After several months of lobbying, I was able to finally purchase Ultimaker S5 printers for the workplace. Now, it’s one problem after another. This wasn’t the trouble free printing experience I had envisioned. We received these printers a few weeks ago and just started doing basic test prints, to tech the students. Printer One keeps having an issue grinding into the PVA material. Or not feeding at all. We frequently have to manually “move” material for the prints to print with material. The feeder tension is set to the middle position and I’m still seeing these grinding issues.

Printer Two is even worse. Feeding filament into extruder two is nearly impossible. Filament doesn’t smoothly pass through. It takes a few pushes to get it into the Bowden, which just leads to a ground up filament segment if we attempt to move the material or print. I don’t know what’s messing up that extruder but it’s clean, no debris I know PVA is tricky and brittle, but no matter how much we change the tensioner, it’s grinding and again, that feed from extruder to bowden seems compromised.

Have others had issues with their feeders? I thought I would inquire with the community while awaiting a response. I spend a lot of effort promoting the ease of use of Ultimaker at work. I’m pretty red faced. Hi LePaul , thank you for your message and for lobbying for the Ultimaker S5! Printer one only has troubles with PVA, or also other materials?

Do you preserve the PVA in anyway, either prior or during printing? Printer two; did you try different types of filament? Could you perhaps share a picture of your feeder, potentially with the cover off if you mention you had it off before?

I’m not sure what I would be looking for, but perhaps something catches our eye. One has only tried PVA that came with the printer. It’s working now Not the normal process. Again, only new filament I think one thing I found is the collet piece holding the bowden into the extruder has some play. So there may be some misalignment there causing friction.

I cleaned out some more debris before putting it all back. Well, as soon as I had it back together, it’s a struggle to get that filament to slide into the extruder. Back to where I started. Can you push the filament so far into the Bowden tube that you see about 5cm of it? I always load it that way, then you don’t have to wait funtil it comes out of the print core.

Same here. It can take several shoves to finally get it in there. But that leads to the failure and grinding. I personally always cut a point on the end of my filament when i load it, it makes it so much more easy to load than a flat end. So i would dry it out 65C for hour should do it and then put it in a polybox or some other airtight system, even when in use.

The second came out clean. This morning I had a student start a print with support and nothing is coming out the PVA side. I always remove the PVA from the printer if i don’t need it immediately again , and feed some cheap PLA through the BB core just with the normal “load material” function. I never had a clogged BB core since i use this method no matter how long it rests unused in a drawer. I guess any leftover PVA will slightly expand in the nozzle when it absorbs moisture and then simply clogs, if it is reheated again Oh – and double check if the feeder is correct reassembled – especially take sure that this screwhead is back inside the housing.

Screwhead is inside, thanks for that reminder. It always makes that un-nerving SNAP when you open the feeder. I think I have narrowed it down a bit more. When feeding filament in, it doesn’t seem to always hit the hole in the level to glide into the bowden.

It definitely takes some finesse to get through there but it seems like more than usual. With the cover on tension screw under the cover , we tension it to the middle position, per the service manual.

There was a few inch gap between the two segments, so we used the Move process to push them together. Side note, is there a way for the PVA extruder to do the prime blob as the primary one does at start of print we checked that on in Cura I know we can do a prime tower but that’s overkill.

How could that be fixed? Yes, it can do a prime blob just be sure you click on that print core at the top of the settings to swap the settings over to that print core. It looks like a bad roll of PVA is the cause of my issues. That’s next! Hi LePaul ,.

Obviously, the filament’s feeder continued to push the filament in such a way that the last bowder between the feeder and the head got disconnected reducing the push inside the head even further.

After cleaning the head with cleaning filament, we indeed observed a kind of caramelized clogged material. Hi sankayop , thank you for your message and welcome to the community! Please do be aware that you are responding to a post that is over 1,5 years old, and answers given or information found may be outdated by now.

Before you used your PVA, did you dry it to ensure it is dry enough to use? It is important to realise that the material station is intended to keep your filament dry, not to make it dry. You can find instructions on how to dry it here.

We have introduced a new feeder wheel after Paul’s original issue which significantly increase the reliability of printing with PVA. I would recommend to stick to the original profile, and make sure your PVA is dry before you load it in the material station.

You might want to check if the coupler holding your bowden tube did not get damaged why the bowden tube got loose. You can do so by removing the horse shoe, push down the coupler and pull out the bowden tube. The coupler should now sit loose in the feeder and you should be able to get it out.

In the inside you should see 4 small metal blades that grab into the bowden tube. If they seem bent or missing you might want to get a new coupler from your reseller they don’t cost much.

If they are still good or when you have new ones make sure the bowden tube is put back properly. Instructions can be found here. So I would recommend to dry your PVA, use the default profile, make sure the print cores are clean and let us know how it goes then.

Good luck! Thanks SandervG ,. The result is on-going but looks ok. Of course, at the cost of the resolution that is now limited to 0. Concerning the BB 0. Nevertheless, I just read about the cardbox procedure with 50’C on the building plate for hrs ; or the hrs in an industrial oven. I don’t see why such a difference.

We have both so, I’ll give it a try. Concerning the bowder coupler, I have never seen these 4 small metal blades, so I suppose I should look after them re-order. I have purchased 6 Ultimaker S5’s for my workplace. We have found that if we put it in our filament dryer for a few hours, it will work pretty well. Every now and then we observe it breaking within the Bowden tube.

I highly recommend the PrintDry Pro series of filament dryers! We also vacuum seal the material in their plastic containers. They are not cheap but for the research printing we do, we feel it is worth it.

We are trying out the Ultimaker Breakaway material. We’re still working on the ideal settings for it since some of the team find it difficult to remove.

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment. Sign up for a new account in our community. It’s easy! Already have an account? Sign in here. SandervG posted a topic in Official news , April


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On your advice, I will find something with stiff bristles and give it ultimaker 3 feeder grinding free good once over. If any of them are larger посетить страницу the nozzle diameter this can cause underextrusion. This doesn’t seem to be a problem on UM3 even though it’s the exact same circuitry but they lowered the current in grindinb firmware.